If planning a trip to Italy this December, perhaps your attention will be drawn to Lucca, in Tuscany. Our Europesure Travel Insurance research gurus have highlighted that December 27 was the day, in 1801, when Napoleon took control of the historic Republic of Lucca, which he then turned into a Principality, under the eye of his sister, Elisa, in 1805.
But December 22 also marks the birthdate of one of Lucca’s most famous sons, the composer Puccini. Responsible for giving the world masterpieces such as the operas, La Bohème, Turandot and Madame Butterfly, he is often regarded as the world’s greatest operatic composer. Little wonder then that Lucca likes to celebrate his heritage within the town.
Exploring Lucca
The red-roofed city of Lucca (once known as Luca in Roman times) is regarded as a wonderful place to visit, which never seems to be too overcrowded, unlike its sister Tuscan cities of Florence and Sienna. In contrast to many places in Tuscany, it is also not a hilltop village, which makes it easier for those with reduced mobility.
The Napoleonic influence and Frenchification of Lucca is pretty hard to detect these days but you will spot Piazza Napoleone and a Hotel Napoleon in Lucca, in a nod to the French Emperor.
Where is Lucca?
The city is on the River Serchio, at the foot of the Apian Alps, just a 30-minute train ride from Pisa, and is instantly recognisable for its impressive city walls, which originally kept its neighbours from Pisa at bay, in turbulent, warring times. The Renaissance city walls are now the only ones in the whole of Italy completely accessible on foot or by bicycle, with 4km at the disposal of anyone wishing to test this theory. This can be a joy and, if you pack a picnic, you will find picnic tables at which to enjoy your al fresco feast. If you are taking your cycle with you for an exploration of Lucca’s historic walls, Europesure can insure it for its travels, through its special add-on policy.
Lucca’s rich heritage stretches back to Roman times, when important figures such as Caesar, Pompey and Crassus would meet here. The Roman influence is detectable in the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, into which no streets lead and access is only via four vaulted gates. This is a remarkable centrepiece for Lucca, shaped as an oval amphitheatre and a glorious place at which to enjoy an espresso or glass of wine at one of the cafés that surround it.
Lucca is also a city of 100 churches and has a deep religious connection thanks to being situated on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrim route between Rome and Canterbury. Its church spires, medieval buildings, cobbled streets and old tower houses make it a fantastic and atmospheric place to visit and explore.
Lucca’s religious connections
Lucca cathedral – The Cathedral of San Martino - was an important stop-off for pilgrims and should still attract the visitor today. Founded in the sixth century and rebuilt in 1070, it also has a bell tower (open 10am to 6pm) that offers fantastic views of Lucca to those who climb its 217 steps) and a museum that is home to stunning goldsmithing works and other treasures.
The cathedral itself is home to fabulous paintings and sculptures, including a Tintoretto painting the ‘Last Supper’, an altarpiece by Fra’ Bartolomeo, another altarpiece by Ghirlandaio (Domenico Bigordi) and also the legendary ‘Holy Face’ (Volto Santo). The latter is an eight-foot-tall carving of Christ at the Crucifixion and legend suggests it was carved by Nicodemus who, with Joseph of Arimathea, placed Christ in his tomb. It is said to have arrived in Lucca from Palestine in 782 AD. It is the oldest monumental wooden statue in the West and one of the most precious relics from the Middle Ages.
Another religious venue to visit is the Church of St Michele in Foro, dating back to 1000 AD, where a young Giacomo Puccini would once provide organ lessons to a pupil. You can distinguish this church by virtue of the 4-metre statue of the Archangel Michael defeating a dragon, which sits on its summit. You can maybe also spot the visual riddle of a green sparkle that may suggest there is an emerald hidden somewhere within the statue. The church has some important art works, by Luca della Robbia, Filippino Lippi and Raffaello di Montelupo.
It is also well worth visiting Puccini’s birthplace, now the Puccini Museum, in Corte San Lorenzo, and grabbing a photo with the bronze statue, designed by artist Vito Tongiani, which commemorates the musical maestro. Inside, you can also see what home would have looked like for a young Puccini and have the highlight of viewing the actual piano at which he composed Turandot.
Tackling Lucca’s towers and tours
If you are capable of climbing a few steps, there are two towers to tackle in Lucca, besides the Cathedral’s bell tower. Both towers will also provide a great view of the city. The Guinigi Palace tower is distinguished by having holm oaks growing on its top, as a symbol of rebirth. This tower requires the visitor to tackle 230 steps, whilst the higher Clock Tower (Torre delle Ore) has 207 wooden steps to negotiate. Do that and you will be able to see the clock’s historic manual mechanism within a timepiece that has kept the time of Lucca for centuries.
Visiting the two towers can be done through a combined ticket that also provides entry to the Botanical Garden, which is well worth a visit. This garden, spread over two acres, has plenty of plants to enjoy, a medicinal plant collection, two monumental greenhouses housing succulents, a collection of edible wild plants, trees and a sensory path for the blind.
The Puccini trail can be extended beyond the city, if you book a special tour. Other things, which may also tempt you, include a horsedrawn carriage ride through the city streets and a private walking tour that will help you note things that might otherwise pass you by.
Another place to explore could be the baroque gem that is Palazzo Pfanner, where guided tours are also available.
Shopping and eating in Lucca
Shopping in Lucca can be a real delight if you explore the wonderful stores and shops in Via Fillungo, the most exclusive shopping street in Lucca, 700-metres long, crooked, irregular and wholly medieval, but also home to boutiques and designer shops. It is here that you will also find the Clock Tower. Elsewhere, the narrow streets are full of antique shops and outlets selling foods and traditional arts and crafts. Look out for local cigars, befanini biscuits and torta co’becchi (a sweet vegetable pie), as well as the traditional stuffed pasta associated with Lucca – tordelli.
What you absolutely must not miss, however, is the city’s famous buccellato, a raisin-strewn semi-sweet bread, flavoured with aniseed and embedded in local folklore. As the saying goes, “Chi viene a Lucca e non mangia il buccellato è come non ci fosse.” To paraphrase, if you haven’t eaten buccellato in Lucca, you missed out, big time!
When and how to visit Lucca
Driving to Lucca is possible and there are hotels offering parking, but do beware the limited traffic zone regulations within the city. With the train station being so close to the city walls, it can make sense to travel by this means, whether from Pisa or on the 80-minute journey from Florence, if you have been marvelling at the Ponte Vecchio.
Whilst Lucca can be a relatively peaceful Tuscan city to explore, that can alter at two times of year. The first is during the Summer Festival, in July, when a variety of musicians and their fans descend on Piazza Napoleone for a musical extravaganza. In 2025, confirmed acts include Bryan Adams, Alanis Morissette and Simple Minds.
The second is late October and early November, when Lucca Comics and Games – an event dedicated to comics, cartoons and Cosplay can see you rubbing shoulders with some costumed characters and comic book heroes.
Avoid these times, if merely wanting to explore the city and pack a suitable travel insurance policy to cover anything that might go wrong, whether that relates to health, possessions, liability or cancellation. All of that can be sorted out quickly, by simply heading to the Europesure website and determining which level of cover you require, on either a single trip or annual policy basis.
